
Thanksgiving and Pumpkin
Lore and What Wine to Select for Thanksgiving Dinner
In the early part of the last century,
women were expected to carve the turkey, eating with one's knife
was considered perfectly polite, and the Thanksgiving holiday
was usually celebrated in December. In fact, Thanksgiving might
not have become a national holiday at all were it not for the
determined efforts of one woman.
Most of today's Thanksgiving traditions have changed little over time. "All over America, we eat the same kinds of foods and follow many of the same family rituals that New England farm families did in the 1700s and 1800s," said Jack Larkin, director of research and collections at Old Sturbridge Village.
However, Larkin and the living history museum offer some lesser known facts and interesting history about this great American holiday:
Thanksgiving did
not become a national holiday until 1863, during the Civil War.
Thanksgivings for abundant autumn
harvests had been primarily a New England
tradition
for many decades. The governor of each state issued his own proclamation
of the holiday. A couple of weeks in advance, ministers read the
proclamation to their congregations during worship services. The
date of the holiday might vary from state to state and from one
year to the next.
Sarah Josepha Hale, editor of the popular magazine Godey's
Lady's Book, waged a long campaign for Thanksgiving as a national
holiday. Her advocacy and the need to find some "good news"
during wartime convinced Abraham Lincoln to proclaim a national
Thanksgiving on the last Thursday of November 1863 -- a time she
had recommended as one when "the agricultural labors of the
year are generally completed."
How table manners
have changed...
According to the etiquette of the 1830s, you showed good table
manners by tucking your napkin under your chin, and eating with
your knife. Women were expected to carve the turkey so that the
feast would go smoothly. Sarah Josepha Hale reminded ladies "especially
to make carving a study and... perform the task allotted to them
to prevent remark." Our current custom of assigning this
task to the male head of household came later, as did the then
outlandish European notion of "feeding oneself with a fork."

Thanksgiving was the
most popular time to get married.
In the 1830s, rural weddings still followed seasonal rhythms, and June weddings were almost unknown. Couples exchanged vows either in the early spring or waited until after the harvests in November or December. "With families already gathered together, Thanksgiving was a favorite time chosen by brides, who were traditionally married at home."
Thanksgiving meant
back-to-school for 1830s children and more leisure time for parents.
With the harvest complete, children began school the day after Thanksgiving and attended through March. Thanksgiving marked the end of the hardest work on the farm, and adults had more time and energy to go to dances, visit and socialize.
History and Folklore
Pumpkin is truly a Native American
food. The pumpkin was a staple of the American Indians and was
eaten roasted, boiled and stewed. At the first Thanksgiving feast,
in 1621, pumpkin was on the menu along with the turkey, corn and
other American dishes. Pumpkins, thought to have been named for
the
medieval
European squash "pompion", were used along with persimmons
in a fermented brew which was flavored with maple sugar by the
innovative Yankees. One legend has it that one Connecticut colony
delayed Thanksgiving because the molasses used to make the pumpkin
pie of the day was not readily available.
Several American writers have referred lovingly to the pumpkin.
"The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" by Washington Irving refers
to a pumpkin jack-o'-lantern. Thoreau and James Whitcomb Riley
both made reference to pumpkins in their writings.
The term "pumpkin head" is said to be derived from a
law which required men to have haircuts which conformed to the
contours of a cap placed over the head. Pumpkin shells were sometimes
substituted for scarce caps.
Mother Goose even refers to pumpkins in "Peter, Peter, Pumpkin
Eater. And everyone has heard of Cinderella's pumpkin coach!
What wine shall we
have for Thanksgiving?
Assuming a gathering of friends
but not of wine snobs, you want good wines that will complement
the food but not be the star attraction. Anyway, star attraction
wines - well aged clarets, cabernets, or burgundies - don't mesh
well with Thanksgiving Day. Granted, roast turkey would go well
with most wines. Turkey is
not
as much of a blank canvas as roast chicken, as it has stronger
flavors and firmer texture, but it still will work well with most
wines. Instead, the problem children are all the other stuff we
eat at Thanksgiving. A lot of strong flavors (both sweet and savory)
- herbed stuffing, yams with those little marshmallows, cranberry
in some form, and (lord help us) jello molds. No fine claret or
burgundy should have to compete with little marshmallows.
Thanksgiving is a quintessentially American holiday, which means
American wines. Wines from Native American grapes and most Franco-American
hybrids have a "grapey" flavor that some like, which
means we are looking for US versions of vinifera varietals.
Nothing says festive like sparkling wine, so have some domestic
sparklers on hand to serve ahead of time and through the meal.
An inexpensive wine would be Korbel Natural and if you want to
spend a few more dollars you could get a bottle of Schramsberg
Blanc de Blancs.
No vinifera wine is more quintessentially American than Zinfandel,
besides which the berry and brambly flavors of good Zinfandel
(by which I mean the red stuff, not the white stuff) will stand
up quite nicely to the strong flavors of the Thanksgiving table.
This means looking for a wine from one of the "four R's":
Raffanelli, Ravenswood, Ridge, or Rosenblum. The less expensive
of them being Ravenswood Vinter's Blend and the top of the line
is the Ridge Geyserville. Some strange people only like white
wine. This would mean that you would have to have some on hand.
Oaky chardonnays will not show well. Go for a more lightly oaked
wine, with a lot of herbal flavors. We will start again with the
least expensive of the whites being Ca'del Solo Big House White
and the more expensive being Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc Stags
Leap District.
Whatever your choice of wines, you can be sure that as long as
you are with your family or friends, you truly have something
to be thankful for.
