Gone are the days of Busy Bee, the old-style Polish diner that served buttery pierogis at a curved counter under fluorescent lights and the rumble of the el overhead. These days, Wicker Park and its surrounding neighborhoods of Bucktown and Ukranian Village for the most part offer up an opposite type of dining experience: modern, hip, and trendy. This part of town has definitely been transformed: from working class to upper class, from Polish to Paris Hilton.

Still, look along the perimeters of the area, and you'll find that the neighborhoods' past as a haven for artists is somewhat alive and well. Start at the edge of Ukranian Village, where FEED (2803 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.489.4600), serves Southern fried chicken and sides to an appreciative, arty crowd. They offer no air conditioning to beat the summer heat but the price is right. If you do need to cool off from the high temps outside, walk across the street and step into BLACK BEETLE BAR & GRILL (2532 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.384.0701 | www.blackbeetlechicago.com ). This bar and restaurant offers up the usual pub fare, along with some surprisingly healthful options.

North on Western Avenue, look for BITE CAFÉ (1039 N. Western Ave. | 773.395.2483 | www.emptybottle.com/bite.htm ), an unassuming storefront that is connected to Empty Bottle, one of the city's best spots for indie and truly alternative live music. And cigarette smoke. You've been warned. Inside Bite, the menu is surprisingly ambitious. Sure, you can get a sandwich, but it's a step up from the usual fare, and bigger eaters can get full meals, with many veggie alternatives. Breakfast on weekends is especially tasty.

You might want to go just a little more into the heart of things for MILK & HONEY CAFÉ (1920 W. Division St. | 773.395.9434 | www.milkandhoneycafe.com). It's well worth having to venture past all the shoe stores and nail salons for M&Hs terrific house made granola mixed with vanilla yogurt. You can buy bags to go (as well as in stores all over town), but be sure to sit at one of the outdoor tables, or inside in the bright, warm space. Sandwiches are big and carefully crafted, as are the salad specials, which change weekly. Beware that weekends are overwhelming, as every Nicole Ritchie wannabe lines up for one bite of their individual casserole of huevos rancheros. Real eaters should save room for the array of sweets, on display in the front case.

Just east of there, ALLIANCE BAKERY & CAFÉ (1736 W. Division St. | 773.278.0366 | www.alliance-bakery.com) has been serving up sweets for years. Recently, they expanded to include seating in the storefront next door, although the atmosphere is somewhat basement like. A better option is the collection of tables and chairs out front, which offer great seats to the free show that is Division Avenue.

If that still isn't enough action, right in the heart Wicker Park, near the triple intersection of North, Damen and Milwaukee Avenues, look for THE GODDESS AND GROCER (1646 N. Damen | 773.342.3200 | www.goddessandgrocer.com ), a fancy prepared foods take-out spot with limited seating available. Prices aren't take-out, but the food is mostly top-notch, and the made-to-order salads and sandwiches are always a safe bet to travel back home.