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It's about time
to put those short sleeves, light colors and summer clothes away
and break into our piggy banks and prepare for the fall season.
We have reviewed the runway and looked at the many offerings
that our fashion Icons have given us for fall and selected a
glimpse into what couture has in store for you. Pay attention.
D&G
Querelle, meet Madonna. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana introduced
the studly sailor to the disco queen on their D&G runway.
Who else but Domenico and Stefano would crowd the catwalk with
both a host of model boys in crystal-studded Madge T-shirts and
a crew of mutinous mariners in worn and frayed nautical garb?

Etro
After the huge, hell-red backdrop had been slowly sliced open
from behind, a man and a woman emerged through the slit and proceeded
to dance an impassioned tango. So far, so Kean Etro. You can
generally rely on his shows to fire up a crowd. So why, after
that spectacular introduction, did this latest presentation feel
a little flat? Could it be that the Duke of Windsor, the man
the designer claimed as inspiration for the collection (and whose
spirit hovered over a number of catwalks this week), simply wasn't
a big enough character to hang a whole show on?

DKNY
The college constituency is clearly a prime target for a designer's
second line-as borne out by the menswear aesthetic of Marc by
Marc or Star USA by John Varvatos. Now DKNY has moved in the
same direction, with a collection that would be a gift to anyone
costuming a movie about campus life. It was easy to imagine a
gamut of students-from preppies to beats-garbed in these clothes,
especially given the way they were layered for the show. There
was something about the pinstripes worn over a denim vest, the
washed-cotton suit jacket topping another in green leather, or
the cabled cardigan tossed over a suit, that embodied a youthfully
considered approach to dressing.

Versace
Last season, Donatella Versace resuscitated the South Beach stud
of the early nineties. For fall 2006, she stepped back to the
previous decade, showing an array of eighties prints and colors
to a front row of New York socialites who looked too young to
remember them from the first time around. It was, according to
the show notes, a deliberate evocation of "the male icon"
her brother Gianni created in that decade, a notion reinforced
by the revolving trademark Medusa head that served as a backdrop.
I really think her collection is all about the crotch!

Prada
With this thrillingly prescient presentation, Miuccia Prada once
again proved that she is peerless in her ability to distill current
events into a fashion moment. Typically cryptic backstage, she
said the show was about "men's forbidden dreams," foremost
among them battle and hunting. Hence the video screens that ringed
the catwalk, depicting a 15th-century painting of medieval warfare
by Paolo Uccello that was chopped and changed so that it read
like a 21st-century computer game. This face-off between ancient
and modern, barbarism and "civilization," animated.

The leading cause
of death among fashion models is falling through street grates.
-Dave Barry
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