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Maybe it's because I eat out so often, but I've grown tired of foam. At a recent meal at a French restaurant in Montreal, my scallops were covered in a lime foam that reminded me too much of the bubbles in my sink from my citrus scented dish soap. Whatever happened to steak frites and tarte tatin? Well, sure I ordered a tarte tatin, but it came out of the kitchen deconstructed, with apples on one side of the plate and pastry on the other.
Now, that isn't to say the restaurant is conversationally-challenged, but that everyone is having a good time, whether they are wearing t-shirts and jeans or sports coats, as boisterous discussions fill the room. Also filling the room, and plates, is well crafted food, authentic takes on brasserie standards and a few surprises. Crusty brown bread and butter starts the meal. While it would've been terrific with onion soup, on a recent visit my dining companion and I chose two salads instead. The endive salad, topped with plenty of sliced pear, could have happily been shared by most diners. Mixed with blue cheese and remarkably still crunchy candied walnuts, it's a solid take on what can be an afterthought on other menus. The salad of red and yellow beets with arugala was nicely married with not-too-sweet orange vinaigrette. The wild roasted salmon atop spring vegetables was cooked medium and was flavorful without any of the stronger salmon taste that can turn off diners. The special of the day was a grilled swordfish: a large portion accompanied by tender artichokes. We also shared an order of frites - golden, hot, and nicely crunchy. Don't be afraid to ask for ketchup if that's your thing, especially if you get one of the burgers on the menu. Desserts are as equally generous in size as are the starters. The recommended profiteroles come as three medium sized scoops sandwiched between two light and still crunchy meringues. This change from the usual pastry dough makes for a deceivingly light dessert, even with the supremely rich, creamy, and fully flavored vanilla, which made me almost forget the promised chocolate chip ice cream. While the plate is dusted with cocoa, diners will want to pour on the thick melted chocolate, a small amount of which goes a long way. Also recommended, the peach clafouti comes in a very large soufflé dish, making this the perfect choice to share. A few raspberries dot the top of the golden cakey crust, which you spoon through to get to the peach slices beneath. While I would have preferred more fruit, the buttery loose cake held its own against the optional raspberry liquor. Service at Haussmann is top notch. Our server answered all our questions thoroughly and patiently, was conversant in wines, and always kept our water filled from an on-table carafe. He seamlessly worked with his team so that tables were well cared for, without most diners even knowing it, making for a very comfortable and rewarding dining experience. Haussmann Brasserie, serving
lunch and dinner, is located on the North Shore: 305 Happ
Road, Northfield, IL 60093 | 847.433.1133. |
Luckily, chef Jacky Pluton, of Pluton
and the still thriving Jacky's Bistro (in Evanston), has not
forgotten what he ate growing up in France. His new spot, Haussmann
Brasserie, is located in north suburban Northfield in the
space that once housed the still missed Melange and the too pricey
MK. Haussmann, however, looks like it is here for a long stay.
The large open space is fronted by a bar, lit by a bank of large
front windows, while the main dining room is somewhat divided
into four quadrants. There is a combination of well-spaced tables
and banquettes, exposed brick and maroon walls, and a partially
separate smaller space in the back that is perfect for those
looking for a little less noise.