Remember Kelly Mondelli's? It was the Italian restaurant on Clark, north of Fullerton, that provided happy diners with big Italian food for years. I went with my family when I was a kid, and leftovers were a given. That doesn't mean I didn't start picking at them in the car, but we left the restaurant with leftovers, nonetheless. People still mourn the passing of Kelly Mondelli's, but savvy Chicago diners have discovered the next best thing in La Scarola, which, it turns out, is owned by the Mondelli family. That's really no surprise, considering many of the menu items are familiar to Kelly Mondelli fans. Like Kelly Mondelli, La Scarola focuses on less trendy Italian cooking, in big portions, with many selections, including several daily specials. You'll find many of the same veal dishes, the broiled, cheesy eggplant parmigiana in a thick tomato sauce (you'll hardly even notice the eggplant, but that's the point, right?), and other items that you've missed for years. If you never experienced Kelly Mondelli's, you'll quickly make these items standards when you order, and you'll begin to understand the appeal of the former restaurant. The storefront space really consists of three rooms, with the front room being the brightest, the second room a bit darker, and the back room feeling, well, like a back room. The only advantage to sitting farther back is the drop in volume as you get further from the front, with its busy flow of customers and open kitchen. Seating is a bit tight, but not too cramped. Really, part of the fun of La Scarola is the boisterous energy of the crowd, many of whom are regulars, greeted by name, and hugging their old fashioned, no-nonsense, friendly waiters goodbye. Though only seven years old, La Scarola feels like its been in the same, somewhat desloate West Loop spot for decades. Something that has been around for decades are the great cheesy framed photographs of various celebs, minor celebs, and who are theys, which line every inch of the front room. There's a local newscaster, there's a familiar face, there's someone who looks like Uncle Jerry. A good place to start your meal is with some rules. Take a deep breath nd hunker down for a big meal. Unbutton your pants in preparation, and limit your intake of the crusty Italian bread and rosemary olive oil, or you'll never make it past the appetizers and salads. My favorite is the large Broccoli salad, which is a simple heaping green mound of still slightly crunchy broccoli, served cold, and dressed with generous amounts of chopped garlic and olive oil, and mouth puckering lemon juice. An ample house salad is a large portion of fresh greens and tomato, while the eponymous escarole is great with white beans in chicken broth. This, with the bread, could be a great meal on its own. But don't stop there. You'll find more room (somehow) for a simple spaghetti and meatballs (three big, almost tennis ball sized ones), a hearty lasagna (this brick is not for the faint of heart), and Pasta Primavera, with a medley of fresh vegetables, including flavorful large sliced mushrooms, sliced baby zucchini, and more. Favorites like Chicken Vesuvio don't disappoint, and will guarantee a swig of mouthwash in the middle of the night to get rid of the garlic flavor. A nice option here is the option to order the chicken boneless. Marsala (chicken or vel or pasta) is also a good choice. A rich mushroom wine sauce is a hearty filler upper. This is winter food, folks, and you'll really feel it in the warmer months. Maybe summer demands some lighter seafood fare. I really like the Whitefish at La Scarola. While some hold disdain for the simple whitefish, the fresh Lake Superior catch is light and absent of any hint of fishiness. The portion is huge, a slab of seafood, but they say you're supposed to eat fish for your heart. Here's a week's worth. It is served with sautéed spinach and deliciously sweet and tender homemade sun dried tomatoes. Entrée prices are mostly in the teens, but quite reasonable for the platter of food you are served. Desserts are absolutely unnecessary, but tasty nonetheless. Portions are more sensible, but you can still share. And, really, after a meal like that, you should. I mean, do you still need cheesecake after everything else? La Scarola is at 721 W. Grand Ave. just east of the big Grand, Milwaukee, Halsted intersection. It's just half a block from summer favorite, Thyme. Valet parking is available, but it's usually pretty easy to find a spot on a street nearby. Call them at 312-243-1740.