Club Lucky is very old school, and that is one of the keys to its success after all these years. Tucked away in the heart of Wicker Park/Bucktown, it feels miles away from those pricier, trendy spots down the street. You can visit with Grandma or you can go out with friends who want to get wasted, and be comfortable either way.

For the latter group, you'll need to squeeze your way to the front of the long noisy bar for a drink while waiting for your table on weekends. Less noisy is the large main dining area, full of tables, plenty of energy, and lots of food. The wooden chairs, paper placemats, and red sauce add to the whole supper club experience, although the extensive cocktail list is very up-to-date.

We like to start off with the vegetarian antipasti, which is plenty big enough to share, or, in the summer, the green bean salad, with still crisp beans, tomatoes, onions, blue cheese and vinaigrette.

This is one of the few places in town where you can specify whole wheat or gluten free pasta, and, with my crazy eating habits, a welcomed option. Of course, regular pasta is on the menu, including a brick of homemade lasagna (all that cheese will take a year off your life, but who cares); fettuccine with tomatoes, grilled chicken, asparagus, and olive oil; a spicy penne arrabiata with basil and chicken or shrimp; and fettuccine in a broth with spinach, which is sort of the antithesis of fettuccine Alfredo (also on the menu).

For heartier appetites, go for the ribs. These are nicely sauced, come with roasted potatoes, and demand that you wear a shirt that can be spilled on. If I'm really going to kill myself, though, the sausage, peppers, and onions is hard to beat. And, the leftovers heat up fine the next day.

Not a fan of red meat? There's always a seafood special, shrimp Scampi, eggplant Parmigianino, and escarole in a savory broth. Yes, there is tiramisu, cannolli, and more, but there is no way you'll have room. Of course, I always find room for the buttermilk chocolate cake.

Club Lucky (1824 West Wabansia | 773.227.2300 | clubluckychicago.com) is open seven days a week and is a participating Dining Out For Life restaurant.