Years ago, when I'd stay in the South Loop after work, and meet a friend for dinner, we'd have about three choices. Mr. Submarine was nixed by me; the old Harrison Hotel Snack Shop was nixed by both of us, and Pago Pago, a by-the-book Chinese place won by default.

It was okay, I guess, in a bland flavorless way, helped only slightly by a vague Polynesian design. Pago Pago had moved around the Loop, eventually landing in its final resting place, on south Dearborn, just as Printer's Row was forming its identity.

That old Pago Pago space is still serving up Asian fare, only now the sauces are a bit lighter, the room is a bit brighter, and the customers are more frequent. Taste of Siam has lived in the space for many years, and before landing there, had spent some time in a nearby building on Plymouth Court, until it was taken over by Columbia College as their first residence center.

Over the years, Taste of Siam hasn't changed much. What once may have seemed slightly exotic to a clientele still unfamiliar with Thai food, now seems somewhat unadventurous and standard. That isn't to say the food is lackluster, just that menu choices aren't too varied from other typical Thai spots.

So, you can start your meal with Spring Rolls or a Cucumber Salad, both light and fresh for a hot day. You can also warm up in the winter with a variety of soups, like the tangy sweet and hot coconut milk based Tom Kha Kai. Not remarkable, but it does deliver the requisite zing.

There is a huge number of entrees to choose from, and you can find slightly less expected fare, if you look a little deeper. You can also find a slight Chinese slant too many dishes. Is this what fols eat in Thailand? Probably not, but muchof it is still tasty.

Noodle dishes include Lard Nar, the wide noodle glop that is covered with a thick gravy. Not one of my favorites, although, really, no worse here than elsewhere. The Pad Thai is thankfully not the sticky glob of noodles served in so many spots. Here, the expected ground peanuts and bean sprouts add a nice texture, and don't forget to generously squeeze on the lime.

Taste of Siam is rightly popular at lunch, and offers a welcome wall of windows to the pedestrian parade up and down Dearborn. The restaurant has mastered the art of getting food out to businesspeople quickly, and larger groups can be accommodated. At dinner, things are pretty calm, and you can make the meal more relaxed.

Taste of Siam is located on Dearborn, in Printers Row in the South Loop.